Starter motor

[col]

Having finally found a suitable replacement starter motor for the 11b a reconditioned unit I was extremely happy until the tape measure came out The margin for removal being tight at 100mm between the chassis and sump housing, on removing the old unit a pry bar was inserted into front engine mounting and I was able to get approx 3mm more play. the old unit 100mm the new unit,115mm . After a day wrestling under the landy 2 jacks on top of each other, not recommended the bloody motor is in.

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[Wheeledbeast]

I had the same problem with my starter. I had to disconect the gearbox mounts and move the whole gear box over to get clearence to get it past the flange for the sump

[col]

Same here, at least the old girl is running again after 18 months standing tappets next she sounds dreadful.

[col]

Any advice please on setting the correct valve clearance , I read somewhere that removing the exhaust manifold was involved in the correct procedure. I don't fancy fettling with a hot manifold if not needed. In the copy I have of the owners manual there is no mention of this but is very vague on the subject.

[Wheeledbeast]

Das can probably offer the best advise , but if you dont remove the exhaust manifold it is very diffficult to get the exhaust valve rocker back on with out any leaks i had an almost unnoticeable leak on mine, but by the time i had got from home to Dunsfold ( 150 odd miles) I had lost nearly two gallons of oil, and rust proofed the rear half of the chassis . I am sure the valve clearance is hot or cold.

[udo1-ton]

Only the inlet valves have to be adjusted in hot condition, the exhaust valves cold.
If you want to do a proper job the exhaust manifold has to come off.
I did it once a year and greased the studs with loads of copper paste. No problems anymore

[col]

Thanks for the replies , exhaust manifold will be removed.