Buyers' Guide Land-rover Super-Heterosexual Deep 2B Forward Control One Ton Rims & Wheels 569203 569204 ANR1534 543384

[fuckwit]

For 'pledge' 'Marc' in Germany and 'Marco' in Italy.

Disc kits with Deep Rims here:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1736&p=11102#p11102

[1] Deep Forward Control One Ton Wheels Rims
Fuckwit's Lipsmackin’coolfizzin’rivet countin’anorakin’motivatin’coolbuzzinn’hightalkin’fastlivin’evergivin’rewritin’grousin’self-aggrandisin’,
Buyers' & Sellers’ Guide to Land-rover Super-Heterosexual Deep-Dish, 2B, Forward Control, One Ton, 130, Rims & Wheels. 543384; 569203; 569204; ANR1534

It contains several large errors and remains in what has since become a 'Registered Users Only' forum, more info comes to light, this is a rewrite of a post I did on that forum some four-five years back. (The things I do for you, honestly)..



Are you sitting comfortably? Then we shall begin:

I know, I know, sob, and it's no use. You've been doing it for years, a trail of bread-crumbs at the wheel-arches every morning - gently coaxing those rims out.

Now you want a set of FC or one ton rims? This term is a very broad brush. If we're going for pedantry, at nine variants and counting with part numbers duplicated to very different rims, there's not really any such thing.

You'll need to know what you mean. Your first mistake would be to assume rims were assigned an orderly model or part number.

And rivet-counters like a number...

These things were manufactured in the 'Land of, "Oh, that'll do." ', the West Midlands. The factory has been mixing rims from the start. The idea there's neat order to something not made with precision from the off, is just wrong. And owners? There's also been infinite swapping - hence you can hold a 'matching-numbers set' yet easily have a dog's-dinner.

The above Portuguese One Ton is a good example. This example left the factory wearing Pressing D Rims, (Part No. 569203). There's numerous anomalies meaning you can't attribute part numbers to one vehicle. Famously sought, part 569203 doesn't exist in the parts book. As for the numbers that do, these were thrown at anything. There's strong evidence, quite a few vehicles left the factory with odd rims.

It's too easy to F this up. The rarer rims are often found without part numbers. Don’t fixate on numbers, unmatched or missing numbers is often a good thing.




How the Leafer got its Deep-dish Rims
Oh best beloved, the G**gle Poodle will find a heap of useless bullplop on this subject.

Paste this into Google and you'll see what I mean:
(Landrover OR “Land-rover" OR “Land rover”) (2B OR 569203 OR 569204 OR ANR1534 OR 543384 OR Forward Control” OR “One Ton” OR 130) (Rims OR Wheels)


Running Pressing D Rims on a Stagey.

Are they all the same? Far from it. Along with a part number mess-up, the truth lies in parallax and optical deception, I’ll explain. Viewed square-on or close to it, these rims ‘appear’ identical. In the flesh you’ll see big differences. Equally, in removing binocular vision, a few iffy snaps on eBay (most likely where you’ll be buying) can deceive massively. All is revealed when you see rims in the flesh.

The ‘Pinpointer shots’
It’s not easy to verify these rims and too easy to be hood-winked. You won't usually have the rims before you.
Usually missing, you’ll want shots showing each inner tyre-well (to see the rivet position) and each hub-side. Often sets are mixed, so you’re after shots for EVERY rim. More likely, you’ll be given 3-4 shots, one a stamped part number for a single rim, the rest from the valve-side. Yet none of the whole set.

If you now grasp the point I make, a mixed-set can be a VERY good thing...


The Winnower
Of the hub-sides of your rims, you want pix like this one. This allows you sight of the rivets, tyre-wells and hub-sides.


Seeing all the rivets help lots. You want to look at the tyre-well rivet positions. Valve-side pics tell you nothing.


What's wrong here? Are you sure you want the part numbers matching?

Most of you won't see what's wrong with the above. This is the classic duped-buyer scenario. As I write this update, these are available on eBay. The seller openly admits being duped into buying three different variants making up his five rims. All were sold as the same thing. Four have the same part number. You'd easily see the problem in the flesh. By the end of this thread, even via poor photos, you'll grasp these differences. Briefly, from the left, the left rim differs from the two in the middle and yet again from the two on the very right. Hence, 1 + 2 + 2 rims. No three the same, and certainly not all five. Land-rover used the same number across several rim types.
From the left there's one rim part numbered, either ANR1534 or 569204, the two in the middle numbered either 569204 or 569203. Whereas on the right you have two rims numbered 569203.
So from the piccy, because of part number overlaps, you can conclude you have four possible permutations.

Perm 1 ( 569204 x 3) + (569203 x 2)
Perm 2 ( ANR1534 x 1) + (569203 x 4)
Perm 3 ( 569204 x 1) + (569203 x 4)
Perm 4 ( ANR1534 x 1) + (569204 x 2) + (569203 x 2)

Which is why you need your eye not on the numbers, but on the pressings. This I will cover.

Here, from the left, you're looking at:

Pressing A x 1 + Pressing C x 2 + Pressing D x 2

"They're all the same see, there's only 1/2 inch in it, etc etc."

Yeah right.

A ruler helps, yet in isolation, won’t be a practical method to finger each rim either. You’ll need other indicators. Confronted with a photo, ridden with parallax, I still struggle.

Part Numbers won’t work
There was a festival of complaints about that first post being long. Many insist this subject will be wrapped-up in a few part numbers and a cosy fireside diagram. It can't.


This image notes 569204 as a part number, whereas the famed 569203 is not listed at all. Parts numbers are an attempt to bring order to something never adhered to in the first place.

There's abundant evidence our fabled One Ton or FC rims became a mess of whatever the factory stocked on the day. Part numbers do help, but only to winnow rims down to pressings.

No apologies ( and you’re bored already) this rewrite is not shorter.


All LR rims including the 6.5 J rims have their hard to see part numbers (they get filled with paint). stamped on the inter-stud flats. Then again, some have NO stamping...

Anorak on, whether you're after train-spotter-originality or 'Wikid bruv, propa wideboyz weeeils innit' you're going to be spending £500-600 upwards. Whilst several hundred must survive I’m aware of only sixteen sets of the ultra-rare and desirable late 2B Forward control rims. With only hundreds ever made, and few survivors, it’s not pub-talk, £1500 is about the going-rate for a full set of the rarest. Cost is not the problem. It’s finding them. The price gouging on rare parts has further to go.


The Archbishop of this parish and his lovely unmolested One ton complete with super-rare 569203 Pressing D rims. Don’t reckon he’ll be parting with ‘em. Won’t let me have his winch either… git.

[fuckwit]

[2]Identification:
Now, I'll assume no need to explain the difference between a Tonne and a Ton. In the UK, education is compulsory. However for new levels of tedium, I’d best explain ET.


Note: This is how offset [ET] is usually measured; ET stands for einpresstiefe, or for those whose German isn't up to much, 'insertion depth' well... they're German... . For our purposes we’ll not bother.

Offset [ET], Deepset & Step
I will use the term ‘step’ to indicate the apparent well-depth of differing rims.



Offset [ET] is the distance from the centre-line of the rim to the hub-face. I'm going to contrive the term 'deepset' and 'step' for this guide. Clearly this is technically incorrect. Last out, I took flak for this.

The complete confusion to how a wheel is measured means I’ll stand my ground. ET is hard to measure. More importantly, especially with tyres on, harder still to instruct another to measure. Even with it correct, ET is more often a hindrance. And near impossible to photo-verify across an email or via eBay. Given an ET of 1 7/8" - and a few photos to go on, pray tell, how do these mouth-breathers think this helps?

Thus, I give you my contrivance, 'deepset'. For the pedants I'm sorry. To compare classic wire-wheels; to Borrani Alloys; to Rostyles; to Minilites; to LR Steels - there'd be no choice. Clearly with complex patterned alloy and wire rims, my deepset measurement would fail - ET would be forced on us. We’re lucky to be comparing like-for-like and able to use the outer hub-face as a common datum. Technically nonsense? Of course it is, yet with one way to measure it, my 'deepset' contrivance is difficult to get wrong. ‘Deepset' it is.

Yes, I know.



Although ironically, making this measurement on Pressing D rims in particular is unnecessary (more on this point later) this pic shows a Pressing D 569203 rim being measured for deepset. [93mm Deepset]. Offset. [ET] can't be verified in a photo or measured so quickly or easily.
A consistent approach is required. all measurements on this post expressed as ‘deepset’.





So, you want a diagram?
On eBay, with an idle, evasive or clueless seller, you're most likely dealing with 4-5 badly taken pics, these showing the valve-sides only. A diagram here, even if you have the seller on the phone, is chocolate-teapot useful. I warn, the parallax-effect means despite significant differences, all rims square-on and from many angles, appear exactly the same. So, to my detractors insisting on a diagram, in all that’s holy, I ask how would you use it? You’ll not align even a decent photo, let alone anything to a diagram. As with the ET measurement, unless £5-600 for the cheapest and £1500+ at the top-end is pennies to you, all a diagram does is demonstrate how you've not considered the practical side of the problem.


And another...

These are typical examples. These diagrams and their variations float about numerous forums. Even with the actual rim in front of you, better those that produce these diagrams explain how they help? Even correct, and they never are, effectively all you have is a dainty part number list. These diagrams perpetuate the various bits of misinformation and myth.

[fuckwit]

[3]Everyone’s claiming they’re selling Forward Control and / or One Ton rims. Few are.
Here’s an example by those that should know better. Sold by LRSeries, because of the mess, LR Series could arguably ‘claim’ this rim to be anything. You might argue they’re right, whatever their claims, it can’t be all at once. It’s actually a Pressing A Type 2.

LR Series peddling something it isn’t.
Read on…

This will addle your brain.
There’s four part numbers over nine variants. Even this number seems to rise as we find more. Because the four numbers duplicate across the four pressings, almost every variant could be confused with every other. Singly, part numbers are next to useless. I’ll explain and instead contrive these rims as Type No.s. Your focus should be on the pressing and how the pressing gets identified. Part numbers do have one use, they separate and aid fingering each pressing.

[fuckwit]

Is everyone sitting comfortably? Then we shall begin.
We'll cover er.... ahem, which rims are the strongest? For the greatest banality, your starter for ten, least desirable rim-pressings first.

Type No.1 Pressing A - Variant 1. ANR1534:
The first of three variants of the 130 Wheel Rim. Tubed. Part Number ANR1534 6.5J: [Deepset measures: 72mm ] This is a late era coiler rim, used on Rapiers, Snatch 110s and the 130. These rims never went near a One Ton or FC.


Pressing A variants are the most easily sourced and the least valuable. But are they the strongest?

Additionally stamped 6 1/2 x 16 x 20.6


Type No.2 Pressing A - Variant 2. ANR1534:
The 130 Wheel Rim in the second of its variants. Tubed. Part Number ANR1534 6.5J: [Deepset measures: 72mm ] Mis-stamping these differ from Variant 1 in the size-stamping only. These variants despite being a 6.5J rim get stamped variously 5 1/2 x 16 x 20.6 or 8 1/2 x 16 x 20.6. There's also evidence that not all early 130 vehicles had 6 1/2 J rims. At least a few had 5 1/2.

This variant despite being a 6.5J rim is stamped 5 1/2 x 16 x 20.6.

This variant despite being a 6.5J rim is stamped 8 1/2 x 16 x 20.6.

But below is a 127 wearing 5 1/2J. I'm told by our esteemed Modmin these changed to 6.5 early on, yet another example of the factory fitting what was to hand on the day.



Type No.3 Pressing A - Variant 3. 569204:
The 130 Wheel Rim in the third of its three variants. Tubed [Deepset measures: 72mm ]. This third variant is a recent discovery. Has a leafer era part Number 569204. But careful, look at other identfiers too, 569204 is duplicated and appears on three distinct pressings. Pressing A, B and C (see Type 5A & 6).



Again, it differs from Variant 1 in part number only. [Note: these pics show different stamp-typeface from more valuable leafer-era rim also stamped with the same 569204 part number]



Strictly speaking Type No.s 1-3 Pressing A are coiler rims. Because they are simple steel rims, they look right on a leafer. They are one of the cheapest ways to fit deep rims to a leafer. In either Type No.s 1-3, Pressing A is a 6.5 rim and this pressing does not appear anything like as deep as the leafer era rims.



Its inner tyre-well means the rim appears shallow in comparison to period rims. Pressing A Type No.s 1-3 have what I shall call, less 'step'. Prices have risen steeply. Just lately, I’ve seen numerous sets of these with poor tyres (and described as the later One Ton rims), sell on eBay, for £450.00+ .

To clarify: When originally found on another forum, those rim-split-pix were billed as a Pressing D 569203 set against a 569204 period rim. I think not, yet i've been wrong before. I see less step, and a wider tyre-well. For my money you're looking at a 130 era rim compared to a Pressing D 569203.


Parksy's Pressing A rimmed beaut.

A vast ex-MOD pile were being sold by Vass in Ampthill for £20.00 a corner. And, whilst you could get them, they had an equally vast pile of Michelin XZY 7.50 tyres too. I should have bought them all. Ex-Northern Ireland I think.

A Vass supplied Type No.1-3 Pressing A 130 rim. On a Michelin XZY tyre, in my book the top tyre for a leafer. 80,000 miles no sweat. 16mm of thread new and vastly heavy compared to even a BFG. Military / Overlander spec. new, these were twice the price of any other tyre. Have the great advantage of being suitable both for use tubeless or with a tube, so perfect for these rims. Will bend your door mount, new they were £320 a corner. Makes anything else look shoddy, 50,000+ in Africa - Croydon won't touch 'em. 14 ply, yes - you heard me 14ply. Discussions on tyres can go on forever, this tyre cuts it dead. All else are cheap and nasty imitations of the proper thing. If you see them, grab 'em.

To clarify, Type No.s 1-3 Pressing A identified by stamping, (6 1/2 x 16 x 20.6) or (5 1/2 x 16 x 20.6) or (8 1/2 x 16 x 20.6) does not look as deep as the older pressings. A good identifier is the the squarer and far wider tyre-well which deprives the rim of the 'step' of period rims.

Square and wider Tyre-well of Pressing A.
I had originally thought the advantage of these later rims was that they would take tubeless - they are not. So given the choice over early Series rims, and all else being equal, condition etc, there is no good reason to favour Type No.s 1-3.

Deepset for Pressing A

Rivet position

Fashion-tips for owners of Pressing A:
This season, the look doesn't have to be frumpy. if you want your rims to pop, dress to flatter. Glamour is the key. Chequer-plate on vertical panels accessorised with a plastic snorkel is this seasons ‘go-to’ fashion combination. Don’t show too much at first, accessorise with the right combination of shonk, and you’ll be a sensation. White gayspokes and a winch sticker says "Chase me". Keep in mind you want to be alluring without appearing easy.




Wise attention to the details and workmanship so exquisite, no one can put a value on it.
Try accenting your outfit. Simple accents look great for evening-wear - you too can wow!
Go for opposites. With this tip, never again will you grow out of an accessory. You don't have to leave it in your wardrobe forever. A snorkel makes real sense when you explain it; reveal you have an air-filter too, and the look is timeless, racy enough, and always glamorous. Looking truly sexy involves knowing what to bare-and what to keep under wraps. Otherwise, where's the mystery?

Next week we discuss how many ‘One Life’ stickers is too many.

Prices
As sets, these rims seem to fetch roughly £90-120 each. Less as singles. Which is not really all that less than period rims. (they were £50 a pop not so long ago) Why you'd pay period rim prices I'm not sure. I will assume, bought by those that don't trouble to see the differences.

[fuckwit]

[5]Type No.4 Pressing B - Variant 1. 543384:
The first of three variants of the early 2A Forward Control Rim Pressing B rim. Part Number 543384 6.5J: Tubed. [Deepset measures: 68mm] This pressing seems very rare, and I've only ever heard, here in the UK, of 2-3 sets for sale.


In my book, less desirable than the other period rims, but more desirable than Type No.s 1-3. I’ll explain why in Variant 2.






Type No.5 Pressing C - Variant 2. 543384:
The second of three variants to the 2A Forward Control Rim Part Number 543384 6.5J: Tubed. [Deepset measures: 72mm]
543384 numbered rims are the original rims fitted to all SIIA FC.

Known as early FC rims because the parts book states 543384 as fitted to all SIIA FC. Type 4 are less desirable than the other series era deep rims, simply because they look quite a bit shallower. The discrepancy between the 543384 variants must have been at the factory. I’d guess these were set-up differently every time the rivet-jig was adjusted to a new batch. For our purposes, Variant 2 can be included as a Pressing C, I make the distinction so, should you see it, you're not thrown.

With so many FC 2a sadly left to their white modular and eight spoke fate, these rims should really be left where they are, on the already rare early FC. But here in the UK anyway, I don't think many will have this quandary, you won’t see Pressing B rims too often.
Nonetheless, if you can get a set, better than any Pressing A (130 rim) variants. They still look significantly deeper with more ‘step’ than Pressing A - Leafer era rims don’t have that square tyre-well to hinder.



Type No.5A Pressing B - Variant 3. 569204:
Pressing B Tubed [Deepset measures: 70mm ] This third variant is a late discovery. Yet another anomally, this guide has been edited to account for it. Where previously the wisdom was early FC, Pressing B rims, always carried Part no. 543384, this discovery bears Part No. 569204. I’ve tell of only one set - there must be more out there. Adds solid evidence, to the idea you can have a set of rims all numbered Part No. 569204, yet via a Type 3, 5A, and a 6, have three entirely different rims.

Here’s the pix:





Looks like 71mm, square on, it's 70mm. (Pics courtesy of Chris)













All above pics Type 5A







Shown above - Type 5A Pressing B rims in the original red, (fire tender?) Unusual stampings, these definitely left the factory this way, but what on? Don’t suppose we’ll ever know, and I don't reckon you'll come across another set like these quickly...




Trip-up: Above piccy is a useful comparison. Usually known as ANR1534 130 rims, on the right is a Type 1-3 coiler era rim, compared in red, to a Pressing B. Period rims look deeper. The trip-up here is that both can be sporting the same leafer era 569204 number. 569204 crops up on early FC format Pressing B rims where you'd expect solely 543384 numbering.



Type 4 is more easily identified by having a 'step' further away from the horizontal than other leafer-era rims

As sets, these rims seem to fetch roughly £100 each. These should sell for more than Pressing A (130) rims, but again, the vagaries of eBay bidding means they don’t. Until buyers wise-up...




Group shot of Type No.4, 5 or 5A Pressing B (Top LHS), Type No. 8 Pressing D 569203 (Top RHS) and an LD rim (Bott). Info on the last two to follow. Photo: linesrg

[fuckwit]

[6]Type No.6 Pressing C - Variant 1. 569204:
The One Ton Rim Part Number 569204 6.5J: A tubed rim. [Deepset measures: 78mm] Not to be confused with the 6 stud One Tonne rim.







Here we are talking about original fitment to the 109 One Ton, with the usual 5 -stud setup. Despite the parts book, this rim was also found on the FC and the TACR. Relatively common in the UK.

Schnice on this S1. Enthusiasts are keen to grab these.




Crucial rivet-position shot


And that rivet-position again.



Trip-Up 1:
Covered previously so I reiterate here, Type No.3 Pressing A 130 rims are being sold as these, also stamped 569204 (with a different stamp typeface for the sharp-eyed) this holds down prices. If stamped (5 1/2 x 16 x 20.6) or (8 1/2 x 16 x 20.6), with the square tyre-well, you do not have a Pressing C Type No.6. It’s a Pressing A - see Types No.s 1-3.



Rivet-counters will see how the stamping-typeface differs on this later rim. Above is not a Pressing C rim. See this and you have a Type No.3 Pressing A. More evidence of how part numbers alone do not work follows.

Trip-Up 2:
Some got marked 569203 and then have the 569203 part number obliterated with a row of X's, and the correct 569204 stamped next to the obliteration. Be even more careful: some are marked 569203, which really throws a curve-ball, but again, more on this later. In real terms, the 569204 is the rim you'll find fairly easily. They seem to have got pricier. You might get lucky and get a set for £500-700. Hence expect £150ish a corner. Three or fewer? Less. But two years from now? You could grab these for £100 the set 5-6 years ago.

If you're after ‘The King of the Hill” late 2B rims, and most will be, you’ll definitely find the next section useful.

Trip-Up 3:
The number 569204 is another one to watch, it can also appear on Pressing B rims. See Type 5A.

Type No.7 Pressing C - Variant 2. 569203:
The Erroneous late 2B Forward Control Rim Part Number 569203 6.5J: A tubed rim. [Deepset measures: 78mm] The erroneous rim. I reckon this is at the route of much of the ‘same’ mythology, It’s the principal trip-up. They 'should' be very, very desirable. But careful, this is Type No.7 the 'Non 569203 rim'.

[fuckwit]

[7]
Type No.7 Pressing C - Variant 2. 569203 (cont'd)...

These would not usually be original to the vehicle, here's a 109 sporting erroneous Type No.7 Pressing C - Variant 2. 569203 rims. Michelin XZY tyres. Nothing wrong in this mis-stamping at all, far from it, just as long as you know what they are. And haven't paid nearer double for them. We'll go on to the 'Proper, proper 569203' rims (Type No.s 8 & 9 ) next posting...

Trip-up 1:
There are quite a few of Type 7 about. Their part number gleefully declares the Type No.s 8 & 9 569203 number everybody really wants. Seen on eBay, the ill-informed see the seller declare 569203 and bids go silly, like they've found Shergar, the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, the real deal. Sorry, boys and girls, nice rims but.. someone might get seen off.

40-50 years later, don’t suppose we’ll ever see the bottom of it. I would guess these came about as a result of a simple error at Rubery Owen (of ROstyle fame), Dunlop or Kelsey Hayes the rim manufacturers - (some are stamped with the Dunlop arrowed 'D', others RO). Maybe two different operators, maybe the hub-centres were made (and numbered) first, maybe they made too many in one batch, perhaps two differing presses or years. We'll never know. These rims are lovely things, yet not the Type No.s 8 & 9 genuine late 2B rims. Careful, there’s lots of these erroneous rims around. Far, far more than the real Type No.s 8 & 9 569203 their part number pretends they are.

I have three of these myself, and have seen more sold on eBay for silly prices. Two of my own 569204 rims whilst stamped 569204 number also have 569203 obliterated with a row of crosses stamped over the far rarer Type No.s 8 & 9 Pressing D 569203 2B part number.

Trip-up 2: No obliteration
I also have two Type No.7 Pressing C - Variant 2 with the 569203 part number with no obliteration.

It is more likely, whatever it says, you do not have a real 569203.

No obliteration
I’ve seen these too many times, for it to be anything other than a factory cock-up. No less desirable, just know what you really have. This part number foul-up, along with scarcity, looks to be at the root of a lot of the confusion. Many of the offset tables you'll find dotted about the various LR forums have the Pressing D 569203 rim at much the same offset as the Pressing C 569204. I reckon this rim is responsible for a lot. Probably why it goes round that FC rims are One Ton rims and vice versa. Where this is concerned the myth is true. To identify these rims, it's all in the rivet position. Buying over the phone requires more than a part number. Myth debunked? This rim does not help.

These rims are pressing C all the same, for a set of four or five of these erroneous numbered rims, you should expect to pay exactly as you would for the very same rim without the stamping error. You might get lucky and get a set for £600-750. Hence expect, at the time of writing £150+ a corner. Three or fewer? Less.

[fuckwit]

[8]So how we doing so far?

Have I now explained how part numbers don't work? 569204 is not a number you can be safe with and nor is 569203. Of the four parts book numbers, only two are truly 'safe'. You are forced to think, not in part numbers or the vehicles these rims came from, but in the pressings.

Knowing this is always a good conversation starter.

[fuckwit]

[9]
Type No.8 Pressing D - Variant 1. 569203:
The much fabled late 2B Forward Control Rim Part Number 569203 6.5J: A tubed rim. [Deepset measures: 93mm] The fact that 569203s "look wel wikid an fill da arches int propa wydboyz stylee innit” has no bearing on why every man and his dog wants a set. Deepest of the lot. Lovely things and the most desirable of the 6.5 steel rims, I will fail to put across the rarity of Pressing D. When you see these, think pricey. Every other eBay seller ‘claims’ to be selling these. Very, very few are. Where buyer and seller knows what they have, their rarity, and what they're worth, eBay listings for these rims usually end early.


Insistence on making this measurement on Pressing D rims is unnecessary. A complete waste of time. Type 8 or 9, Pressing D are the easiest to identify WITHOUT any measuring or sight of any part number. See below

Identification of all Pressing D rims is falling-off-a-log simple. No ruler, no part number, no nothin'. All you need is your eyes. See the hub-sides of your set. Here a Pressing D (in grey) is being compared to a Pressing C (in white) , see how the inner hub-centre has an overhang at the point by the rivets. No other rim has this marker. Hence, this feature guarantees dead-centre for the rare Pressing D. Next, ensure all have this feature. Mixed-sets are very common.

Here in close-up, that overhang nails it

And by contrast the equivalent in Pressing C doesn't.

If you've an evasive, dim or plain lazy seller supplying few pics, this helps too. Look at the tyre-well rivet position, spot the rivet-line as close to the hub-side of the tyre-well. This is another surefire indicator you've fingered a Pressing D rim. No other rim has htis. Shown here - Pressing D (in grey); and for comparison, Pressing C (in white). And never forget, both these can be found carrying the same 569203 part number.


One ton In Portugal

The owner of this Stagey bought another set from the stash of yours truly last year.





Late 2B Fire Tender

eBay listings for these rims usually end early.





The tale goes that mud & snow chains had problems fouling on the wider mounted 2B FC rear springs. The solution was to offset the rim to clear the springs when chains were fitted. Received wisdom has these solely fitted to the late S2B. Untrue. It seems 569203 rims were not fitted to the S2B in all markets. Despite the parts book assertion that the One Ton was specified for only Type No.s 6 & 7 (Pressing C) rims, Type No.s 8 & 9 (Pressing D) also left the factory on the One Ton. If there really is such a thing as a 'Fire engine rim', this variant would be it. Careful, most of those using the term, don't actually know what they mean by it.



For every twenty claimed FC Forward control rims seen on eBay, I'll put my mortgage, I’m NOT seeing this Pressing D rim. Type No.s 8 & 9 are extremely rare. In the last four years, no more than 1-2 sets were been seen on eBay. The last full set were mine. You’ll be collecting one or two at a time. Complete sets command significant premiums. When you see these, grab ‘em…

[fuckwit]

[10]Type No.9 Pressing D - Variant 2. 569203:

These sourced in the UK, above pic shows the only known set of of Pressing D in Germany. Hello Marc. The late 2B Forward Control Rim Part Number 569203 6.5J: Version 2 A tubed rim. [Deepset measures: 98mm] A very slight variation on the previous rim, has a deepset of 98mm but for all intents, the same rim.

That part number again. Don't be surprised if some rims have their part number stamping missing completely.

The overhang that marks these rims out.

More pics of the tell-tale overhang of these rims.
I bring your attention to it here, should you see it, you know what you have. The extra deepset is gained not by moving the rivet any nearer to the hub on the rim-outer, but by drilling the 3 x rivets holes on the rim-centre nearer in the direction of the wheel-hub. Is this truly a variant? I don't believe so, I strongly suspect these rims were batch-made and whoever set the jig did it slightly differently, batch to batch, year to year, operator to operator. Again, we can all makes guesses and still never truly know. I can't see this as a true variant.
On the subject of factory mismatches, I found my last four of these rims and one Erroneous 569203 (Pressing C - Variant 2.) on a late 2B FC. Sadly its owner insisted on fitment of gayspokes. I have good reason to believe this late 2B FC left the factory with a mixed set. 40-50 years later examples like these, and there are many, refuse to be conform to 'rhyme or reason' - or parts book.

Trip-up:
In the parlance anything near the true and proper Type No.s 8 & 9 Pressing D quickly gets referred as “203s”. Mixed sets and rarity means what you have is far more likely to be Type No.s 6 & 7 Pressing C.