900 Club Forum

Having finally found a suitable replacement starter motor for the 11b a reconditioned unit I was extremely happy until the tape measure came out The margin for removal being tight at 100mm between the chassis and sump housing, on removing the old unit a pry bar was inserted into front engine mounting and I was able to get approx 3mm more play. the old unit 100mm the new unit,115mm . After a day wrestling under the landy 2 jacks on top of each other, not recommended the bloody motor is in.

I had the same problem with my starter. I had to disconect the gearbox mounts and move the whole gear box over to get clearence to get it past the flange for the sump

Same here, at least the old girl is running again after 18 months standing tappets next she sounds dreadful.

Any advice please on setting the correct valve clearance , I read somewhere that removing the exhaust manifold was involved in the correct procedure. I don't fancy fettling with a hot manifold if not needed. In the copy I have of the owners manual there is no mention of this but is very vague on the subject.

Das can probably offer the best advise , but if you dont remove the exhaust manifold it is very diffficult to get the exhaust valve rocker back on with out any leaks i had an almost unnoticeable leak on mine, but by the time i had got from home to Dunsfold ( 150 odd miles) I had lost nearly two gallons of oil, and rust proofed the rear half of the chassis . I am sure the valve clearance is hot or cold.

Only the inlet valves have to be adjusted in hot condition, the exhaust valves cold.
If you want to do a proper job the exhaust manifold has to come off.
I did it once a year and greased the studs with loads of copper paste. No problems anymore

Thanks for the replies , exhaust manifold will be removed.